The Ultimate Guide to Inclusive Suit Tailoring for Every Body Type
Bespoke suits have come a long way from the boardroom. No longer the preserve of the straight, white, uber-conservative business man, modern-day suiting is an inclusive affair, channeling traditional craftsmanship into cutting-edge looks that capture the individuality of the wearer when they most want to make an impression.
At King & Allen, our approach to tailoring has always prioritised the individual, creating looks which combine the expertise of our craft with the vision and personality of our clients. As society has evolved, we’ve witnessed a beautiful shift towards looks that reject the rigid rules of the past, embracing freedom of style and personal expression instead.
Written By Jake Allen, Founder of King & Allen
Breaking Down Barriers
We’ve seen various evolutions of this movement, first with the gay community and in recent years with the increased visibility of trans and non-binary individuals. These communities are tearing up the rule books and embracing tailoring as an art form irrespective of size, shape, or ability. This has had a freeing effect, benefiting our whole industry and every person looking for something that is uniquely them.
This transformation has been particularly evident in the wedding space, where couples are increasingly seeking suits that reflect their authentic selves rather than conforming to traditional expectations. The result? More creative, more personal, and infinitely more meaningful wedding attire.
The Art of Listening
As tailors, we are the experts in our craft, but the trick is to lead while letting the client steer. Some of our best creations have come about by setting all assumptions aside when people come for a consultation, and simply listening. This is absolutely essential when working with diverse couples – understanding who they are, what their relationship means to them, and how they want to present themselves on their special day. By actively avoiding the temptation to box people in, our clients tell us everything we need to know about who they are and how they want to present. This informs our creations from the outset, and everyone gets more out of the process.
Starting with the Vision
We spend a considerable portion of the initial consultation talking about the finished look that the client wants to achieve. This is particularly relevant for our trans and non-binary clients, for whom this may be the first time they are having a bespoke garment made that reflects their authentic presentation.
We lean away from overly gendered concepts such as “masculine” and “feminine” as these terms can mean very different things to different people. For made-to-measure, we work with two cuts or ‘blocks’: a more shaped silhouette and a straighter one. While they can absolutely be perceived as gendered, we don’t automatically defer to one or the other with the client unless they have a very clear preference.
Instead, clients can try on both blocks and we can see what works for the individual and take it from there. Once you have the right block, it can be adapted in so many ways to ensure you get the finished look spot on.
Understanding Body Types and Proportions
Most people, when they think of bespoke suits, think of something that hangs perfectly on the body, is well cut, and very sharp – draping over any areas you prefer not to accentuate and highlighting those areas to which you want to draw attention.
If someone is outside the proportions of made-to-measure, we would look to create something completely bespoke, which means creating a unique pattern for the individual, ensuring that every element is tailored specifically to their body and their vision.
We tend to speak in terms of proportions rather than using language that may make the individual feel uncomfortable – words such as “larger” or “bigger” in this context are avoided altogether.
The Technical Side: Fabric and Construction
Because of our decades of expertise in this space, we know what works well and what should be avoided. For a more curvy shape, lighter weight cloths will drape more, which does not provide the optimum finished look. In this instance, we steer towards cloths with a bit of weight, which hang better, or, if it’s a summer event, fabrics consisting of high twist yarns which provide a natural bounce – creating that crisp, sharp look you associate with a tailored suit.
The construction techniques we employ also vary depending on the desired outcome. We can, for example, create a softer look by avoiding the use of shoulder pads and opting for softer canvasing in the chest area. For a more structured look we reverse this, using thicker shoulder pads and a firmer canvas to create more defined lines . Everything is geared towards the ultimate goal: achieving the perfect silhouette for each individual body type.
Current Trends in Wedding Suiting
Wedding suits today are about so much more than following convention. We’re seeing couples who want to match, contrast, or complement each other in ways that feel authentic to their relationship. Some want identical cuts in different fabrics, others prefer completely different silhouettes that work in harmony. We have seen an increase in demand for a more androgynous look over the years, which means people tend to lean towards our straight block, whereas those looking to accentuate their curves might start with the more shaped option, but these are just templates really – we work with the client to give them the style they want.
The Magic Moment
There’s something incredibly powerful about seeing someone step into a garment that has been created specifically for them – not just their measurements, but their personality, their story, and their moment.
For wedding clients especially, this moment often comes with tears of joy, recognition, and a deep sense of being truly seen. It’s not just about looking good in a suit; it’s about feeling completely yourself in one of the most important moments of your life.
A Client’s Journey: Lorelei’s Story
Recently, we had the pleasure of working with Lorelei, who came to us for a completely custom made three-piece suit for their wedding to Jemma. As someone who is both plus-size and non-binary, Lorelei had initially thought about wearing a t-shirt trouser combo to their wedding, feeling that finding suitable formalwear seemed “totally impossible.”
Working with our consultant Cat, Lorelei embraced wedding traditions that felt authentic to them. The bespoke suit served as their “something new,” with blue embroidery on the inside featuring their and Jemma’s initials as “something blue,” and a family pocket watch for “something borrowed.” They chose a blue/green plaid bamboo fabric for comfort, paired with a striking emerald green velvet jacket that tied into their wedding’s colour scheme and felt authentically them.
What struck me most about Lorelei’s feedback was their appreciation for Cat’s sensitive approach. As Lorelei put it, the experience made them feel “totally normal” rather than like their size was an “issue” to solve. There was no uncomfortable focus on measurements – just collaborative expertise.
On their wedding day, Lorelei experienced genuine gender euphoria, feeling comfortable in formalwear for the first time. Jemma, who had never seen Lorelei in a properly fitted suit – despite seven years together – was thrilled for them. The velvet jacket drew consistent compliments, with guests asking where the suit was from, giving them plenty of opportunity to recommend King & Allen to friends.
Lorelei’s stunning wedding suit was captured beautifully by Rebel Love Club & Stephanie Dreams Photography as part of The Queer Bundle.
Beyond the Wedding Day
While the wedding day is undoubtedly special, we always encourage our clients to think beyond that single moment. A well-crafted bespoke suit should serve you for years to come, adapting to different occasions and evolving with your personal style.
We often discuss with couples how their suits might work for anniversaries, other celebrations, or professional occasions. The beauty of bespoke is that it’s not just about the immediate need – it’s about creating something that will be part of your story for years to come.
The Future of Inclusive Tailoring
Over recent years we’ve witnessed tailoring reflect broader societal changes. Every client who walks through our doors brings their own unique vision, their own story, and their own way of seeing themselves in the world.
Our role as tailors is to honour that vision while bringing our expertise to bear in creating something that exceeds their expectations. It’s a collaborative process that results in garments that are not just beautifully made, but which are deeply personal and authentically expressive. At King & Allen, we’re excited to continue being part of the evolution, one bespoke creation at a time.
About King & Allen
King & Allen was founded in 2003 by friends Adam King and Jake Allen. Their vision was radical yet simple: create beautifully crafted suits that celebrate individual style, without the prohibitive price tag or intimidating atmosphere that had become synonymous with Savile Row.
Twenty years on King & Allen has sold over 30,000 suits and, thanks to its inclusive approach, is one of the UK’s best-loved tailors.
At the heart of King & Allen’s success lies an unwavering commitment to making exceptional tailoring feel personal, accessible, and joyful. With a blend of traditional techniques and modern sensibility, the King & Allen team create experiences that make every client feel distinctly, wonderfully themselves.
